Backstitch Tutorial: How to Add Detail and Outline to Cross Stitch

You've spent hundreds of hours stitching X's. And then at the end the pattern says: "backstitch." Those thin, continuous lines that outline eyes, letters, and details. This is where your piece goes from flat to sharp.

What is backstitch?

Backstitch is an embroidery technique that creates a continuous line by stitching one step back each time. The result: an unbroken, clean line perfect for outlines, text, eyes, whiskers, and all the details cross stitch X's can't produce.

When does a pattern call for backstitch?

Almost every modern cross stitch pattern has backstitch lines indicated as thin solid lines on the chart — distinct from the colored symbols for X's. Check our guide to reading cross stitch patterns if symbols still feel unfamiliar.

Backstitch is always done last, after all cross stitches are complete.

Materials for backstitch

• 1 strand of DMC floss (not 2 like for cross stitches — backstitch should be thinner)
• Your usual cross stitch needle (size 24 for 14ct Aida)
• The DMC color the pattern indicates (often darker than the surrounding X's)

Backstitch technique step-by-step

1. Come up through the fabric at point B (one square ahead of your starting point)
2. Stitch back to point A (one square back, your starting point)
3. Come up at point C (two squares past point B)
4. Stitch back to point B
5. Repeat: up one square ahead, back to the previous stitch

The result: a continuous unbroken line where each new stitch touches the previous one.

Tips for clean backstitch

1. Don't pull too tight

Many beginners pull backstitch too tight — the Aida warps. Pull just enough that the stitch sits flat against the fabric without distorting it.

2. Follow the lines exactly

Backstitch often runs along the edge of a colored square, not always through the middle. Study the pattern carefully before you start.

3. Diagonal backstitch

Sometimes backstitch runs diagonally. Same technique, but corner-to-corner of the square.

4. Long backstitch runs

Keep each individual stitch at most 2 squares long. Longer stitches look messy and can snag.

Common mistakes

• Using 2 strands: Too thick, looks heavy. Always 1 strand.
• Working with knots: Hide your starting point under a cross stitch on the back. Knots are ugly and can come loose.
• Doing backstitch before X's: Backstitch gets crushed when you cross-stitch over it. Always last.

Where backstitch makes the difference

• Faces: Eyes, nose, mouth — only recognizable through sharp backstitch outlines
• Text: Cursive names, quotes, dates — impossible without backstitch
• Whiskers and hair lines: Essential for animal portraits
• Flower stems and leaf veins: Subtle details that bring designs to life

What if backstitch comes loose?

Backstitch can pull free during aggressive washing. Tip: secure starting and ending points carefully behind other stitches, and treat your piece per our washing guide.

Going further

Backstitch is your first step into more advanced embroidery. Then you can experiment with French knots, half-stitches, or mixed techniques. Our beginner starter guide is worth rereading anytime.

Practice backstitch on the right pattern

Backstitch is best learned on a pattern that actually uses it. Our custom photo cross stitch kits include backstitch lines for outlines around faces and detail — perfect for practicing on a piece that already feels personal. For classic designs with clear backstitch sections, browse our ready-made designs.

FAQ

How many strands of DMC for backstitch?

1 strand (from the 6 in a DMC skein). Gives you a fine, sharp line.

Can backstitch be a different color than the cross stitches?

Yes, follow the DMC number the pattern indicates for backstitch — often a darker or contrasting color.

When do I backstitch — before or after washing?

Before washing. Backstitch is part of the piece and should be washed together with the cross stitches.

Is there a simpler alternative to backstitch?

Not really — backstitch is already the simplest outline technique. Some beginners try cross stitches in thin lines, but the result is never as crisp.