Finishing your embroidery: framing, stretching, or hooping

Last updated: May 6, 2026 — by Stitchly Studio

You've put hours — or weeks — into your piece. Now for the final stage: finishing your embroidery. Many embroiderers find this the most exciting moment, as there's no turning back. In this article, we'll list the three most popular ways to finish your work: framing, stretching, and leaving it in the hoop. Including all the tips to make it look professional.

First: preparing your piece for finishing

However you ultimately present it — these steps are the same for all methods:

1. Tuck away loose threads

Turn your work over and look at the back. Neatly weave long loose threads under your existing stitches (weave in 3 to 4 cm, then trim). Do this carefully — translucent fabric will reveal messy work later.

2. Trim loose ends

Don't leave long tails — they can show through later or get caught when ironing.

3. Wash your work (optional but recommended)

While working, your palms and the fabric can get sweaty, greasy, or dusty. Before finishing, handwash your work in lukewarm water with a mild detergent. Do not wring — lay flat between towels to dry.

Important: only do this if you are sure your thread is colorfast. Mouliné thread usually is, but test a corner if you're in doubt.

4. Iron your work flat

Place a towel on your ironing board, lay your work face-down on it, and iron from the back on a low setting. This keeps your cross-stitches fluffy and flat at the same time.

Option 1: Framing in a photo frame

The classic — and for good reason. A framed cross-stitch piece looks finished, presentable, and fits into any interior.

What do you need?

• A photo frame with a suitable internal size (allow your work to be well-centered)
• A piece of matboard or museum board in the same size
• Pins to temporarily secure the fabric during centering

Step-by-step plan

1. Lay your ironed fabric face down on a table.
2. Place the board in the center of the fabric.
3. Fold the overhanging fabric around the edges of the board — taut but not so taut that your piece distorts.
4. Secure the fabric with pins into the side of the board, or carefully tape the overhang with archival-safe tape.
5. Place the assembly in the frame, close the back.

Unsure if it's centered? Hold the frame up to the light — this will show you if your piece is straight.

Tip: have it professionally framed

For your large and favorite pieces: a professional framer. They can provide acid-free materials (crucial for long-term durability), stretched mounting, and a truly beautiful overall look. Expect to pay €50–150 for an average size.

Option 2: Stretching on a wooden frame

Also known as "stretched": your work is tightly stretched over a wooden panel — without glass over it. Modern, minimalistic, and you can see the tactile texture of the cross-stitches better.

What do you need?

• A wooden panel or canvas frame in the correct size
• A stapler (a regular tacker is fine)
• Optionally: a layer of thin cotton batting for extra thickness

Step-by-step plan

1. Place the panel in the center of your piece.
2. Start in the middle of one side: pull the fabric taut to the back and secure one staple.
3. Do the same on the opposite side — pull taut.
4. Work outwards towards the corners, alternating opposite sides.
5. Fold the corners neatly like a gift package and secure with staples.

Result: a piece that can be tightly stretched and hung on the wall, without a frame around it.

Option 3: Leaving it in the embroidery hoop

The easiest and most commonly used method nowadays: your work stays in the embroidery hoop you worked in. Wooden hoops look beautiful and make the piece ready to hang immediately.

Step-by-step plan

1. Re-hoop your ironed piece — tighter than during work.
2. Trim the excess fabric around, leaving about 2 cm extra.
3. Fold that overhang inwards behind the hoop — if necessary, with a line of glue or a sewn layer.
4. Cut a circle of felt or fabric in the same color and glue/stick it to the back. This provides a neat finish.
5. Attach a loop or hook to the top of the hoop — ready to hang.

Advantage: your piece is ready for the wall in 15 minutes. Disadvantage: not protected by glass (but less susceptible to dust than you might think).

Option 4: Incorporating into a cushion or bag

For the advanced crafter — or if you're good with a sewing machine. Your work becomes part of a cushion cover (16 × 16 cm or 30 × 30 cm for a statement cushion) or a beautiful bag. Works wonderfully as a personal gift.

Combine with a plain back in the same color family, add a zipper or button closure — and you have a unique interior piece.

Which method suits what?

• Small work (15–20 cm): leave in the embroidery hoop or frame.
• Medium (20–40 cm): frame or stretch.
• Large (40+ cm): frame with matboard, or stretch on a large panel.
• Gift: in the embroidery hoop — looks festive and requires little extra work.
• Own interior: what suits your style. Industrial decor? Sleek black frame. Boho-look? Wooden hoop or stretched.

Common finishing mistakes

1. Not washing, and seeing stains afterwards. Washing before finishing is cheap insurance.
2. Framing too tightly. Keep a 2–3 cm margin around your piece — otherwise, the frame will cut off your crosses.
3. Ironing on the front. Cross-stitches become flat. Always iron from the back with a towel in between.
4. Cheap cardboard in the frame. Acidic cardboard will yellow your fabric after a few years. Use museum board.
5. Too thin fabric for the hoop method. Glue a layer of felt behind your work to prevent show-through.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does my work need glass?

Glass protects against dust and UV — wise if your work hangs in direct light. For a living room with subdued light, it often works without. If you use glass: choose anti-reflective glass for the best look.

What if my piece has stains that won't come out?

Try Oxi-powder or a mild stain salt in lukewarm water (only on colorfast thread). If it doesn't help — frame it and ensure the stain falls outside the central image. The story behind a piece is often more charming than perfection.

Can I have my work framed without it being stretched?

Ask your framer for it — they will then stick your work loosely on the board with archival-safe tape, instead of stretching it. Slightly less taut, but reversible.

How do I store my unframed pieces?

Flat in a box, separated by acid-free paper. Do not fold along the same line — creases can áalways remain visible.

Ready to get started?

Don't have a piece to finish yet? Check out our custom photo embroidery kit and choose a pattern that suits where you want to hang it later. Also read our beginner's guide to cross-stitching and the guide to choosing embroidery hoops if you're still unsure about your materials.